Still, with a military base now nearby, we sleep easily after our morning flight from Addis Ababa to the town of Mekele and an eight-hour drive from there.A sound wakes me during the night and I roll over. A camel and a donkey — the former chasing the latter — gallop at full tilt through our camp. I turn to my friends. They are all asleep. I look up at the moon and shut my eyes.We wake at 5:30 am the next morning and, after eating some local pancakes, climb into our two 4X4s and begin our descent to 120 meters below sea level.
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